You park your car to the gentle crash of waves from the ocean and see the welcoming warmth of Homespun ahead and can’t help but feel excited, especially if you’re there for a special occasion and you’ve heard the rave reviews from past patrons who fast become regulars. That’s because a meal at Homespun isn’t just about the flavours set before you. It’s a full experience that'll blow you away. We were doubly lucky in that owner Matt insisted we do our review on a very special night indeed – our ninth wedding anniversary.
Owner Matt Schreuder has worked in his dad’s kitchens from the age of 13 and at Michelin-starred locations across the globe after leaving school. This led him to dissecting the entire dining experience, putting it back together in the most pleasing way. This ranges from the serving style at the year-and-a-half old establishment to the indoor temperature, background music and décor. It’s evident from the moment you open the glass doors just off Marine Circle, part the curtains and step into the epitome of elegant comfort, where you’re greeted by name before being asked if you have a booking. Still not sure how they knew it was us!
It’s dark yet warm and modernly homely, filled with natural wood, candles and a wall of light with vibrant, non-lyrical background music that sets a good tempo for eating, with tables far enough apart that you can't hear your neighbours' conversations.
After a few very stressful work weeks for both, it seemed the perfect way to unwind and reconnect with each other. And reconnect we did, with the ultimate romantic meal. Tucked into a secluded corner, with a proper candle chandelier above our table and a bottle of water freshened with slices of fresh lemon and cucumber, the friendly wait staff all came over to wish us happy anniversary before reeling off their personal favourites from the menu in such a way that we quickly sided with almost everything they recommended.
We went with the goats’ cheese and beef tataki starters, both deep fried and supremely unusual. There’s nothing greasy about these deep-fried delights – the goats’ cheese rounds with blob of accompanying balsamic vinegar ice cream are officially my new favourite thing. Paired with the warm, soft cheesy rounds and hot bursty little cherry tomatoes, the tart ice cream was the ideal blend of hot and cold. Presentation is everything, with black slate plates setting off the vibrant sunset colours of the tomato reds and golden crumbs, as well as the beautiful edible flowers Matt confessed he grows himself. The beef tataki was a similar taste explosion, with the panko-crumb-coated cubes cooked to perfection and served with caramelised white onion puree as well as crispy onions, pickled ginger and wasabi-infused kewpie mayo.
Following a tongue-neutralising palate cleanser it was time to deliberate over our mains for the night. The recommendations were the braised sticky pork belly with lentil and pork cheek ragout, carrot and citrus puree, aubergine tempura and Aryan; and the tempura duck with vermicelli, chipotle aioli, exotic mushrooms and coriander foam, but the menu also made the braised lamb shank with sweet potato puree, quail egg and nihari jus; the crispy gammon with pecorino custard, pickled wild mushrooms, teriyaki-glazed carrots, grilled zucchini and burnt orange and honey reduction sound not-to-be-missed. After a literal coin-toss we went for the pork belly and the lamb shank, two of our favourites, both of which exceeded expectation. The pork belly included fritter-like pork crackling fritter, soft, sticky pork belly on a mustard mash, and a dry, spicy ragout. Matt muddled together a speedy Lovespun cocktail for me, a pleasingly pink concoction with sprig of lavender, bits of cucumber, strawberry jam, gin and lemonade. Refreshing and lovely.
For dessert, we opted for the coconut blossom cheesecake infused with white chocolate and cardamom with the walnut praline gelato, and the blonde white chocolate fondant with fruit jellies and almond crumb – well worth the 13-minute wait as the creamiest caramel oozed out of the fondant, making every spoonful with Vahlrona dark chocolate gelato. Washed down with an espresso martini and cappuccino respectively, this was the perfect end to the perfect night.
The food, the service, the ambience… There’s little doubt Homespun by Matt fills the Table View gap for good local food without a drive into town left by the closing of his dad’s establishment Dale’s Place, and little wonder there’s a five-week wait for a table in summer. Watch the time-lapse video below of Homespun by Matt’s final day of fit-out and opening evening for family and friends last February for further convincing:
*Leigh Andrews was a guest of Homespun. Click here to view the a la carte menu and sign up to their mailing list, and keep an eye on their Facebook page for their regular food and wine pairing evenings. Reservations are confirmed once you receive a confirmation SMS – click here or call 021 556 2824 to submit a reservation request. They’re open Monday to Saturday from 6pm to 11pm.
