So it makes sense that when Rowan and Anthea Vos, those steadfast folk who took on the South African Railways and won, and created the fabulous Rovos Rail vintage train journeys, wanted to expand their five-star train hotel experience to the land, that they'd want an original St James mansion.
For them the proximity of the train track (between the sea and the road) must be comforting but I found the sound from the passing commuter trains a drawback, albeit the only one, to staying there. St James Manor is 100- year-old building with stately proportions. Timber staircases and panelling give it a warm feel. It is decorated in the way that someone sophisticated might decorate their own home.
There are the original tourism posters used to promote South Africa abroad (which also feature in the Rovos Rail suites) and now and then you'll see the Rovos Rail monogram, but for the main, there is nothing about St James Manor that suggests it is a hotel. Even the breakfast room (lunch and dinner can also be arranged) looks more like a set up for a Bridge party.
Our American friends often talk about being "nickeled and dimed" at hotels here. What they mean is that one often finds, even in five-star properties, that internet access is billed as extra, or that only one cup of coffee is included but not the second. At St James Manor (as on the Rovos Rail trains), with the exception of French champagne and super-premium liquor brands, everything is included.
As delightful cupcakes from Woolies are, I expected freshly baked scones with clotted cream magically imported from the UK. Staying at St James Manor raises expectations.
Our Findlay suite is one of the largest in the house at 70m2 with a day bed/window seat and separate sitting area that has proper lighting (to read by) and vast a bathroom with double vanities. It suites sitting area opens onto an open balcony shared with the library with wonderful sea views. Although there is a pool and sunning deck, the location is directly across the way from the famous St James tidal pool.
For visitors who want the classic Cape experience, there are lots of options available on foot. Kalk Bay is now so trendy one feels obligated to brush one's hair first before visiting. In previous years, the ramshackle and quirky nature of the shops and their keepers gave one permission to browse still with sleep in one's eyes and sand in one's toes. There are also many excellent eating opportunities for everything from just-landed fish at many of the spots to artisan breads and good coffee.
St James is also close enough to the Constantia wine valley to comfortably make day trips and, for the adventurous, St James train station is a hop, skip and ticket away. Classic suites are from R2900 for two people including breakfast.
The St James Manor, 108 Main Rd, St James, Cape Town, +27 (0) 21 788 4543, az.oc.sovor@semajtseht, www.rovos.com.
